玉龙雪山茶叶蛋的故事

Pretender

我第一次吃的茶叶蛋是在夜市(pasar malam) 买的。一大锅的鸡蛋就在褐色的汤汁里泡着。剥开了敲碎的蛋壳, 发现汤汁的颜色已经渗透到蛋白里去了。咬了一口,觉得味道不怎么样,从此便很少再买。

2000年过春节的时候,我提着背包,一个人到云南去探索滇藏路线。在丽江的时候,我乘着大索道,见识过了玉龙雪山上海拔4500米的冰川。下山后又乘车到中甸,往滇藏界线又迈进了一步。当时的山路难行,处处结冰,分分钟都有滑落山谷的可能。实在是惊险万分。由于当年的雪下的特别大,我在中甸足足被困了两天。那时的中甸还不是什么香格里拉。像样的饭馆不多,所以每天都只能以粗茶淡饭充饥。

玉龙雪山

回到丽江时,天气已转晴。我打算从另一个角度为玉龙雪山拍一张全身照。乘7路车到了第一个收费站时,我要求下车,不再往登山入口处前进。从一个干枯的草坪,玉龙雪山至高无上的耸立着。天空虽然万里无云,我却得忍受着寒风刺骨的舞动着相机。正在这时候,收费站那儿走来了一位亭亭玉立的姑娘。她手里抓着一把铁丝,吊着一个火炭炉,上面煮着一锅香喷喷的菜。

“大哥,吃茶叶蛋吗?”

原来是卖茶叶蛋的。我想到了在夜市吃过的茶叶蛋便摇摇头。

“试一个吧。不好吃不收钱。”

“怎么可以不收钱呢?” 我说。这姑娘也太可爱了。“多少钱?”

“一个一块钱。大哥,我说真的。不好吃不收钱。”

太便宜了。反正我肚子空着。又想借火炭炉取暖,就索性跟姑娘要了一个茶叶蛋。吃下去的那一瞬间,我才发现原来茶叶蛋是可以煮到这么好吃的。酱油,茶叶,川芎 和五香配合完美,令人齿颊留香。我想再买一个,可是姑娘已走远了。我这才觉得奇怪。这荒山野岭怎么会冒出一个卖茶叶蛋的姑娘呢?收费站有几个人,她卖得了几个蛋?为何不到人气较旺的登山口,索道站去呢?过了好一阵子,开往丽江的7路车才到达这偏僻的收费站。

回国后,我便开始自制我的玉龙雪山茶叶蛋。当然更不会到夜市去买了。

玉龙雪山茶叶蛋

玉龙雪山茶叶蛋

上面的图片就是我亲自煮的茶叶蛋。那位姑娘没给我什么食谱。食材是我自己吃出来的。再告诉你一个秘诀。要茶叶蛋好吃,用最上等的酱油是最关键的。大家不妨尝试一下。不好吃可不要收钱哟。

Greek Cuisine

I’ll be off to Greece in a month’s time and although history, culture and topography will be high on my itinerary, I will definitely not miss out on the food. As usual, I get that “why of all places” poser and once again, I shall take up the challenge and write a minibook about my trip which would be worth reading.

Greece is one of the oldest cultures in the world. Some say that it’s the cradle of Western civilisation. The word “Acropolis” means “high city” and an medical condition called acrophobia refers to a fear of heights. There are numerous other words in European languages which are of Graeco-Roman origin. The legacy of the ancient Greece has travelled far and wide. However, Greek food is quite obviously not as ubiquitous as French, Italian, Thai and Japanese food. The recent craze over Mediterranean diet has practically fizzled out.

Hirtensalat

Olives, olives everywhere. In ancient Greece, cutting down an olive tree will earn you a death sentence. Today, more than 100 million olive trees grow in Greece, producing more than 100 varieties of olives, weighing in at some 120,000 tonnes annually. Some of the olives are cured and sold as a condiment but the most important use for olives is to produce olive oil. The olives are first ground into a paste which is then pressed to extract oil. About 70% of Greek olive oil is “extra virgin” or first pressed. Greek olive oil frequently win awards at international competitions.

For this reason, Greece is sometimes referred to the land of liquid gold and olive oil is often the top ingredient in any Greek dish. Much of Greek or Mediterranean food also includes lemon juice. The two are often mixed with raw vegetables, herbs and more olives to make salads.

As Greek is a mountainous country where there is little land for the rearing of cattle, meat dishes often feature mutton and even the cheese originates from goat milk. Beans and peas also appear very often on the menu. Onions, bell pepper, tomatoes, eggplant are also major components in most Greek meals. Condiments include dill, fennel, oregano and spices like cinnamon and cloves.

Goats on a Mountain in Greece

Of course, with so many islands and an long stretch of coastline on the mainland, seafood is also quite common. Fish, shrimp, mussels and octopus are cooked in a number of ways including grilling, stewing and frying.

Greek Salad with Shrimp_2009_1123

For what most of us regard as snacks and pastries, the Greeks may have it as a main meal (along with coffee and/or wine). Baklava is one dish that many visitors highly recommend. It’s like a multi-layered biscuit and apart from the shape, bears some resemblance to the traditional Chinese biscuit like Taiwanese Tai Yang Bing, except that baklava is very syrupy and you’ll need a spoon. The sweetness doesn’t end there.

Baklava

Spoon sweets contain fruits preserved in thick syrup. It is usually eaten as a dessert with diners scooping the fruits directly out of the bottle. Cherry, plum, loquat, fig are all fair game. Sometimes, people would make a water-diluted drink with the syrup. Thick, aromatic syrups, some made from natural ingredients like crushed rose petals are also infused into cakes and cookies. Definitely not the kind of stuff for sugar-hating health fanatics.

Greek Orange Spoon Sweet (Gliko Koutaliou)

The BBC recommends Top 10 Greek Dishes over here. You may want to check it out.

With all that oil and sugar, one would be tempted to assume that Greeks must be very unhealthy people. On the island of Ikaria, one third of its population is over 90 years old. Many live to 100. The Ikarians also have 20% lower risk of cancer, -50% risk of heart disease and 90% lower rate of diabetes compared to the rest of the world. It is easy to conclude that it’s all in the diet. The answer may have more to do with lifestyle. Life is Greece is often unhurried and stress-free. Greeks are friendly, hospitable, communal people. They almost never eat alone and their lunches and dinner may take two hours. They have a positive attitude towards life, walk frequently and take afternoon naps.

Diets are difficult to stick to and the Mediterranean diet is no exception. But for the majority of ambitious city folks like Singaporeans who go all out to succeed in life by buying luxury apartments and posh cars, adopting the Greek lifestyle may be even more difficult if not impossible. Yes, the country is in the midst of an economic crisis, but I believe the people are still friendly, generous and hospitable. Wait for my firsthand report.

Myanmar Baked Fish

Far from amenities while trekking, meals are seldom great. Sometimes, even rice would be a luxury. But there was one meal I had years ago while trekking in the Shan Hills of Myanmar that was most unforgettable. My guide Kenny prepared some baked fish for lunch.

Inle Lake

We started our trek from the shore of Inle Lake at an altitude of almost 900m above sea level. Kenny bought a big fish at the market that morning, then brought it home where he seasoned it and wrapped it in aluminium foil. A porter carried the fish and some of our other stuff in his backpack.

Our destination that afternoon was a PaO village near a ridge which Kenny called Elephant Hill, some 1500m above sea level. Like most hilltibe villages, it was a house on stilts, made from wood and bamboo. Drying cheroot leaves occupied most of the space in and around the house. Typical of hilltibe houses, there was a hearth in the kitchen area.

HDR hearth

The floor was lined with metal and all the cooking was done over wood fire. Kenny placed the foil-wrapped fish over some glowing wood and 30 minutes later, the rice was cooked and a marvellous baked fish was laid out before us. That was probably the best meal I’ve ever had while trekking.

Working from memory, this was what Kenny used for the seasoning. Salted beans, ginger and slices of lime. Like Kenny, I’ve used aluminium foil, but the fish I’ve used is sea bass – a $6.90 creature bought at Sheng Siong. A fish flown in from Inle Lake would be too costly.

No wood fire in my home, so I popped the fish into an electric oven. I’ve set the oven temperature to about 220oC.

And here’s the fish after 40 minutes of baking. Of course it didn’t taste as good as the luxury I had in the Shan Hills, but it’s still a great treat. Yummy juices.

© Chan Joon Yee


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